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Wendorfs 
Practical 
Cutting 
Method 



A NEW SYSTEM which enables one to take correct 
^___._.,_ measurements and draft patterns for 

ladies' and men's garments. 



^- < 



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Copyrighted 1913 

by 

William Wendorf 

CHICAGO 



J. B. PORTER COMPANY 
Printers and Engravers 

CHICAGO 



/ J^ .C- -v. 



©C1,A331791 { -^" ^ / 1 1 



This improved system of tailoring is the invention of Mr. 
WilHam Wendorf — an experienced and able cutter, designer 
and practical tailor. It is the product of years of earnest work 
and experiment. Its aim is practical. It has been tested at the 
cutting table and bench and rightly used has never failed to give 
entire satisfaction. 




Pat. Oct. 22. 1912 



This new improved system will conquer the most difficult 
figure. It matters not how harsh or angular the lines of the cus- 
tomer's figure, the patterns drafted from the measurements taken 
by means of this instrument will be perfect. These patterns will 
be individual. 

This method has solved the problem of poor fitting garments. 
Incorrect measurements are impossible if the very simple directions 
outlined in this book are followed with care. 

The United States government after a thorough investigation 
of Mr. Wendorf's instrument issued him letters patent on it 
October 22, 1912, protecting him in all the rights of his wonderful 
invention. 



Chart I 



H-J' 
J-K 


A-B 
AC 
A-D 


E-F-G 


O-P 


C-M' 

C-H 

C-E 


D-J 
D-K 
D-L 
D-G 


A-F 

\ Sleeve 
T\ " Length 

A-L 


A-K 

A-J 

A-M 



Chart II 



2'/4 63/4 


8- 31/4 
93/4 


24 


38 


71/2-6 

9 14 


81/4 5 
3 12 


Q Sleeve 
•^ Length 

9 1/4 


81/4-81/4 

61/2 



Wendorf's practical cutting system is the simplest and most 
reliable in the world. It does away with ill-fitting garments. It 
reduces the number of fittings and thus saves valuable time. 
Any tailor or dressmaker can use this system without prior in- 
struction. The ability to take measurements accurately and 
draft patterns correctly is what makes a tailor, and this is where 
the Wendorf system in invaluable. 

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS 

Two charts will be found on page 2. Chart I shows the alpha- 
betical arrangement of the essential measurements as taken by 
the instrument from Figures I and II on page 4. Chart II shows 
the numerical arrangement for recording the measurements of a 
normal breast of 36 inches, which is used for the ground foundation. 







Fig. I 




Ml 



Jl. 




Fig. II 



Method of Measuring 



To take measurements place the instrument on the customer 
as shown in Figures I and II on page 4. Be careful not to adjust 
too tight nor too loose. Place point A of instrument (see Figure I. 
page 4) in the armpit and fasten it with the little hook directly 
under point A on the instrument. Place slide B back of the arm 
and you have the measurement for the armscye. 

Place slide C in the center of the back (Figure II) and you 
get the blade measure. 

Next place slide D in the center of the chest (Figure I) which 
gives the breast measure. Be careful to see that the instrument 
is perfectly horizontal on the customer. 

Place a pin on shoulder point J (Figure I) and one on the top 
of shoulder at M or where it is desired to place the shoulder seam 
according to style or fashion used. Take tapeline attached to the 
instrument and take measurements as shown on Figure I and II, 
placing same in the appropriate squares as shown on Chart II, 
page 2. 



POIIVT 









F 



Pat. Oct. 22, 1912 



Cut illustrating how measurements are named in rotations 
and operations of instrument in drafting patterns. 



H to J' and J to K Neck gore 

A to B ' Armscye 

A to C Blade measure 

A to D Breast measure 

E to F and G Waist measure 

C to M' Back over shoulder measure 

C to H Back height 

C to E Back waist length 

D to J Front balance 

D to K Front height 

D to L Bust depth 

D to G Front waist length 

A to F Under arm seam length 

A to L Bust measure 

A to K Neck point 

A to J Shoulder point 

A to M Front over shoulder measure 




The Ground Foundation 



MEASUREMENTS 



21/4-63/4 


8-31/4 
93/4 


24 


38 


71/2-6 

9—14 


8I/4-5 
3—12 


Q Sleeve 
'^ Length 

91/4 


8I/4-8I/4 
61/2 



Detailed Instructions for Ground 
Foundation 

Mark a cross on drafting paper and call it A. Place point A 
of the instrument over point A on drafting paper. Proceed to 
mark measurements as they have been taken with the instrument. 

For example: 

A to B is 334 inches Armscye 

A to C is 93^ inches Blade Measure 

Now square down from point C and square up from point B. 
Put tapeline on button C of the instrument and mark points 
as follows: 

C to M' is 73/2 inches Back Over-Shoulder Measure 

C to H is 6 inches Back Height 

C to E is 9 inches Back Waist Length 

E to O is 5 inches Hip Depth 

Sweep points H and M' pivoting at C. Put tapeline on button 
A and mark following points: 

A to F is 9 inches Under-Arm Seam Length 

F to S is 5 inches Hip Depth 



Now move point A of the instrument one inch forward to allow 

for looseness of garment, canvas and padding. 

A to D is 8 inches Breast Measure 

Now put tapeline on button D on instrument and mark these 
points: 

D to J is 8' 4 inches Neck Balance Point 

D to K is 5 inches Front Height 

D to L is 3 inches Bust Depth 

D to G is 1 2 inches Front Waist Length 

G to P is 5 inches Front-Hip Depth 

Sweep points K and J pivoting at D. 

Sweep points L, G and P pivoting at K. 

Put tapeline on button A on instrument and mark the follow- 
ing points: 

A to L is 9I4 inches Bust Measure 

A to K is 8}i inches Neck Point 

A to J is 8^4 inches Shoulder Point 

A to M is 6^ '2 inches Front Over-Shoulder Measure 



10 



Now sweep points L, K, J and M, pivoting at A. 

Draw lines from E to F and O to S. 

From O to Y is one inch. 

Draw a line from Y through C to H. 

Square out from H. 

H to V is 2 1 4 inches Back Neck Size 

V to J' is I') inch. 

Shape back part from H to J' and from J' through M' striking 
the sweep line at point M' , which is % the distance from J' be- 
tween point J' and line B. Extend '^4 of an inch over line B for 
the back-shoulder seam length to point I . 

Shape back-armscye as shown on diagram dropping 32 inch 
under the cross line at point A. 

Draw a straight line from K through L, which gives points 
G and P. 

The front-shoulder seam must be just as long as the back- 



shoulder seam less ^4 inch. The one inch allowed from A to A 
must be taken out on shoulder between points M and 3. To do 
so measure the distance on the back part between J' and M' ; 
place this amount on front shoulder from point J, striking sweep 
line at point M. The distance on sweep line L to U is one-half of 
the distance from A to D. 

Now make a sweep from M to 2, pivoting at U. From M to 3 
is one inch. Mark lines from U to 3 and U to M. Measure the 
balance from M' to I of the back and place this amount on 
sweep line from 3 to 2 less I4 inch. 

Shape the front-neck from J to K. Shape front-shoulder from 
J to M and 3 to 2 and make front-armscye as indicated. Draw 
lines from F to G and S to P. 

The waist measure is 24 inches for this normal ground founda- 
tion, so give I4 of the waist measure from F to Q and '4 from F 
to R. The balance from Q to E and R to G is the front and back 
waist surplus and must be taken out of all close-fitting garments 
by darts, which I will explain further on special request. 



WILLIAM WENDORF. 



12 



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LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 950 3 • 



^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 964 950 3 * 



